How Hard Is This Expedition?
To many people’s surprise, I always say the physical side to this expedition is one of the easy bits. Even when cycling the Pamir Highway. I don’t cycle every day. In fact, I probably only spend half the days cycling. Days on the bike are rarely super-long: about four or five hours riding is normal. Yes, Chris the tandem is an absolute beast to ride, and sometimes it really does feel like I’m towing my house behind me (which I suppose I am). And occasionally hills or headwinds can make turning the pedals tough. But this challenge tends to be manageable and known. I could certainly up the miles and intensity of the cycling, and cover the distance in half the time, but that’s missing the point.
So what is challenging?
Let me take one example. Riding through the Covid pandemic has had certain advantages (namely, having places to yourself, and increasing interactions with local people, rather than other travellers), but it has also made crossing borders hugely difficult. To get this far, I have been very fortunate to have the help of many different people – including friends, cyclists, government officials and diplomats. As with so much of this ride, it has been a team effort and I am hugely grateful to everyone who has helped thus far.
But to give you an idea of some of the challenges, let me share with you a rough timeline of my attempts to travel to Tajikistan:
In Bishkek, I meet Kyrgyz MP, Dastan, who cycles with me on Chris.
In Bishkek, I’m told at the Tajik Embassy that the land border is closed.
Leave Bishkek, expecting Osh (southern Kyrgyzstan) is as far as I will get.
After two days of cycling, the Tajik cycle federation, who I hope might be able to work the government gears, say they are unable to help.
UK Embassy in Tajikistan kindly get in contact with the Tajik Ministry of Foreign Affairs.
After a week, halfway to Osh, I find out from the UK Embassy that the border should be open to foreign travellers.
I then apply for a Tajik e-visa, two weeks before I hope to cross the border.
Three-quarters of the way to Osh, brakes give out on descent. Carolyn and I are lucky to escape with scrapes. Cycling the Pamir Highway in Tajikistan, the world’s second highest road, with failing brakes, seems like a bad idea.
Decide to stop in Osh, fly back to UK, and after a break, bring out new brakes.
The next day I realise we can get new brakes sent out. Order new brakes (thanks The Tandem Shop and Dad!)
Arrive in Osh. Tajik e-visa still hasn’t arrived. One week till I must cross the border, or remain and fly from Kyrgyzstan (I have said I will be back in UK at the beginning of September).
On my first night in Osh, I find out through overhearing a conversation of French traveller that Kyrgyzstan isn’t letting people leave through the land border. Tajikistan, once again, is off the cards. Spend an evening feeling disheartened.
Hitchhike to Lenin Peak and go hiking whilst waiting for brake discs to arrive.
Unwilling to take no for an answer. On slopes of Lenin Peak, start messaging Kyrgyz MP Dastan to find out if Kyrgyz border guards will let me out.
Dastan says no. I ask him to try again. He does. Kudos.
Next day, whilst I am at 4400m, Dastan tells me it is possible. Tajikistan is back on.
Return to Osh. Brake discs have arrived. Success! E-visa still hasn’t arrived.
Following day – fix bike. E-visa still hasn’t arrived. Plan route and realise I need to leave Osh in two days at the latest to get flight in Dushanbe. It will take 3 days to cycle to the border, so I will have to set off without knowing if I will get e-visa.
Next day. E-visa still hasn’t arrived. Send emails to visa department in Tajikistan. No response. Realise that e-visa is unlikely to arrive in time. Start planning rest of time in Kyrgyzstan.
Have lunch with Kyrgyz friend, Iskandar. He puts me in touch with Tajik tour operator. Phone Tajik tour operator in the evening. He’s the father of one of my former students at UCA. Says he will help.
E-visa should arrive today. It doesn’t.
I write this piece. No e-visa, but I will set off tomorrow anyway, and hope e-visa arrives before I reach the border.
Future projection: borders are laws unto themselves. Even with e-visa I might get rejected at border. Makes note to buy several packs of cigarettes. Even once in Tajikistan, the bike might have mechanical problems, I might get sick from the altitude and the Taliban are now 30 metres away across the Panj river. If I get to Dushanbe I will then need a PCR test (result before the flight) and to pack a tandem, trailer, and five bags in an airline-friendly fashion.
Enjoying whisky and coffee at Dubai International Airport whilst writing this post
Epilogue (written from Dubai airport)
Set off from Osh on final day to get me to the border in time, with Nurlan joining me for the day on Chris. No e-visa.
Day before I must cross Tajik border I cycle solo to Sary Tash. 3600m pass. No e-visa. As I climb, no internet either.
It’s 9pm when I arrive in Sary Tash and get internet. I’ve spent the climbing planning my next week in Kyrgyzstan.
Check emails in guesthouse. E-visa has arrived! Tajikistan is back on.
Next day, cycle to the border. Told that it’s closed.
Stand ground. The self-proclaimed “specialist” makes some calls.
The border is open.
Cross Kyrgyz border. Climb Kyzyl Art pass (stone and dirt track. Exhausting).
Cross Tajik border without problems. They offer me bread.
I start the Pamir Highway through Tajikistan at last – cycling like a madman, because, well, I am one, and I don’t have any time to spare!
Uncertainty, and constantly changing plans are one of the biggest challenges I face. The solution? Try to let the future take care of itself, and take it as it comes. It’s most challenging when there’s a chain of one thing relying on the next. Try to give yourself a bit more time, trust you will be able to overcome the challenges, and take each moment as it comes.
I don’t always find it easy to stay relaxed and calm though!
P.S. That I am writing this from Dubai International Airport, Terminal 3, shows that, at least in this case, things worked out in the end. But even leaving Tajikistan wasn’t straightforward. But you’ll have to listen to episode 23 of the Bristol2Beijing podcast for more on that…